Distant Journeys

Day 2: Today will be spent with a historian who specializes in prehistory. Beginning at the site where Cro-Magnon man was discovered, our day will be defined by a mix of short lectures, walks in the area and visits to impressive caves, most notably the Grotte de Font-de-Gaume. A 130-yard passage back into the cave reveals multi-colored paintings of horse, bison, reindeer and mammoth. Dating back to the Magdalenian Period, 12,000 to 14,000 years ago, these are thought to be France’s finest group of polychrome painting second to those of Lascaux.

For those who would prefer to spend the day walking, a circular route can be made from Les Eyzies following the GR36 north and east to the village of Tursac with its unusual fortified church and then on to the La Madeleine, a prehistoric site as well as the site of a troglodyte village during the Middle Ages. Returning to Les Eyzies on the west side of the river Vezere, this an undulating walk through oak and chestnut woodlands and open fields, with expansive views of the cliff lined Vezere River.

Day 3: Our morning will begin with a short transfer to the cliffs of St. Christophe. A half-mile long cliff raising 262 feet above the Vezere River, these cliffs were home to 3,000 people during the middle Paleolithic period about 100,000 – 35,000 BCE, and from the 10th to 16th centuries served as a fortified village. From here our walk will take us through a rolling countryside of forests and open fields to Abri de Cap Blanc. This unique Prehistoric site of high relief carvings on the wall of a rock shelter depicts two bison and an amazing frieze of horses. A 15-minute walk from Abri de Cap Blanc then brings us to the impressive castle ruins of Chateau de Commargue built as a stronghold in the 12th and 13th centuries.

Day 4: Transfer to Lacave, where the l’Ouysse River departs from the Dordogne River. Before beginning our walk we will visit the Grottes de Lacave. Discovered in 1902, this cave offers a glimpse into the spectacular natural worlds that can exist within the earth. From Lacave an 11-km hike (about 6.5 miles) following the GR6 leads us along the riverbanks of the L’Ouysse to the famous village of Rocamadour. Rounding the last bend in the trail, the cliffs of Rocamadour rise ahead. These 1,600’ cliffs and the silhouette of the church are stunning. There is time to linger in the village before continuing on to our hotel for a short distance out of town.

Day 5: Rest day. Staying at the same hotel for two nights, we will have time to rest and explore Rocamadour and its surrounding countryside.

Built into the 492’ rugged cliff face rising from the Alzou Canyon, Rocamadour with its towering castle possesses one of the most romantic and scenic settings of any French village. The final destination of one of the most famous pilgrimages in Christendom, Rocamadour was a thriving village until the 13th Century after which it was heavily sacked. Though it has never regained its former splendor, it remains a fascinating destination for both religious pilgrims and travelers alike.

There are a number of short circular walks that can be made right from our hotel through the surrounding countryside. A longer circular walk continues along the GR6 as it leaves Rocamadour and enters the Alzou gorge. As the gorge narrows, the route passes the ruins of 5 old mills before climbing to flat farmland and returning to the village.

Day 6: From Rocamadour, we transfer to the historic village of Domme and our accommodations for the next two nights. The Bastide of Domme, dating back to the 13th century, is well preserved. The town square and neat rows of stone houses combine to make this one of the most picturesque villages in the area. The view from the bastide is wide and inspiring as you look north over the river valley.

From Domme, we will hike to the picturesque village of Roque-Gageac, nestled between dramatic cliffs and the banks of the Dordogne. Enroute to Roque-Gageac, we follow the GR64 though the rich farmland that borders the river, passing through the village of Vitrac and finally meandering through woodlands on our approach to the village.

Day 7: Today’s hike will take us first to the fortress of Castelnaud. Its commanding position above the junctures of the Dordogne and Ceou valleys lends to the grandeur of this classic medieval fortress. Wandering through this site and visiting the Middle Ages Siege Warfare Museum brings one closer to imagining what life might have like back then.

From Castelnaud, we will continue our walk along the river to the village of Beynac , From the bottom of the village, we will follow the steep and narrow pathway of Caminal del Panieraire, the Basket Markers’ Path, up through rows of 15th to 17th century houses to the Château. Rising from a sheer 150’ promontory at the river’s edge, this fortress occupies yet another spectacular setting. Once occupied by William the Lion Heart, Beynac has seen many transformations and now offers another intriguing look back into distant centuries.

Finally, we head to the famous hanging gardens of the Chateau Marqueyssac. Classified a Historical Monument, this 15th century Chateau and its 22-hectare garden are uniquely situated on a huge limestone outcrop above the Dordogne River. Called the Belvedere of the Dordogne, the panoramic view gives us a look back at our day’s hike. From where we can see the fortress of Beynac, the châteaux of Fayrac and Castelnaud, and the fortified villages of La Roque-Gageac and Domme. After strolling the pathways of these impressive gardens, we will return to Domme and our farewell dinner.

Day 8: In the morning, we visit the market in Sarlat before transfering to the train station in Brive-la-Gaillard in time for the early afternoon train to Paris.