you are here: Home > France > Corsica Inn-to-Inn

Corsica Inn-to-Inn 2009

Tra Mare e Monti
Inn-to-Inn

The Trip

Described as “une montagne dans la mer”, a mountain in the sea, Corsica is a compelling destination for hikers and walkers. Located in the western Mediterranean, tucked into the “armpit” of Italy, Corsica’s wild and relatively undeveloped interior is crisscrossed with thousands of kilometers of marked trails.

The Tra Mare e Monti, “between the mountains and the sea”, winds its way along the northwest coast of Corsica alternately wandering between secluded mountain hinterlands and stunning coastal seascapes. Beginning and ending in the porto cities of Ajaccio and Calvi, this 12 day journey will take us through the Scandola nature reserve with its incredibly red cliffs, beneath the curiously serrated peaks of Paglia Orba and Cinq Frati and to the tiny fishing village of Galeria accessible only by foot or boat. Ancient mule paths, time worn Genoese footbridges, sleepy hamlets with simple “gites” offering classic Corsican cuisine, are all beckoning reminders a long tradition of traveling by foot.

TOP

Itinerary

Day 1: Rendezvous at the Ajaccio Airport. Group transfer to Cargese about one hour away. Cargese is a peaceful little village perched on headland and surrounded by a deep-blue sea. A starting point for both long distance walks, the Tra Mare e Monti and Mare a Mare Nord, its small lanes sprinkled with bougainvillea, fig trees and palms exude a welcoming and relaxed atmosphere. Welcome dinner and trip orientation.

Day 2: Today’s hike will be a day hike to the dramatic Punta Orchinu and the Punta Omigna both jutting dramatically into the Mediterranean Sea. Both these puntas define the rugged western coastline of Corsica. In the afternoon we will return to Cargese.

Day 3: Today’s hike is one of the most remote and wild of any on this route. After an early transfer to out trail on Revinda, our route turns northeast and meanders gently up the Sulleoni Valley though old-growth marquis scrub below the ragged peaks of Punta di Scavata. We pass an old circle of stone once used for storing and drying chestnuts and further on we encounter the remains of an old copper mine. From the mines we begin our first real climb of the day up the narrow Riogna Valley.

Arriving at the pass of Bocca d’Acquaviva (1102m, 3,637’) our route becomes more undulating and wilder until reaching the ridge top of Culletta au Prunu (969m, 3,200’) marked by a cairn and crucifix. From here expansive views to the distant Golfe de Sagone accompany us as we follow an old mule path over the Bocca a u Mamucciu (824m, 2,720’) and through stately chestnut groves before we end our day in the little village Marignana (715m, 2,360’). Time: 6 hours 30 minutes, Elevation gain: 776m (2,560’), Elevation loss: 666 (2,200’), Distance: 20 km (12.4 miles).

Day 4: The first hour and a half of today’s hike takes us alternately through marquis and chestnut forests to the deserted settlement of Tassu and then onto the more thriving village of Evisa. The crossroads of the Tra Mare e Monti and the Mare e Mare Nord, Evisa is a magnet for “through” hikers as well as day hikers.

From Evisa our route takes us down the spectacular Spelunca Gorge along an old cobbled mule path. Leaving the shade of chestnut trees we descend through oak and pine forest to the confluence of the Aitone and Tavuella rivers. We cross the Genoan arched bridge of Pont de Zaglia following the deep ravine of Spelunca Gorge. From the gorge our route takes us along the Lonca River where we’ll pass a series of wonderful natural pools that provide the perfect opportunity for an afternoon dip. After crossing Pont Vecchiu our second Genoan bridge of the day, we climb to the village of Ota and our gite for the night. Time: 4 hours 20 minutes, Elevation gain: 260m (858’) Elevation loss: 636m (2,100’), Distance: 11 km (6.8 miles).

Day 5: Today’s hike takes us up through the orange colored Vitrone Ravine, and on to the hidden plateau known to locals as Pedua. We’ll have impressive views of Calanches de Piana and Cappa Russu in the distance before descending to the pass Capu San Petru (914m, 3,016’). A steady descent gives us occasional views of the dramatic peak of Paglia Orba before ending in the little settlement of Serriera (50m, 165’). Time: 6 hours 30 minutes, Elevation gain: 589m (1,943’), Elevation loss: 880m (2,904’), Distance: 10 km (6.2 miles).

Day 6: This is a relatively short day. From Serriera we climb the shoulder of Capu d’ Ocra reaching an elevation of (350m, 1,155’). Our route turns east and descends to cross the stream of Vetricella (66m, 218’). Climbing again our trail emerges just above the village of Partinello with views out to the Golfe de Porto. Skirting behind the hilltop of San Angelu we traverse below the cliffs of Capu a Parate before descending into Curzu (250m, 825’). Time: 4 hours, Elevation gain: 62m6 (2,065’), Elevation loss: 384m (1,267’), Distance: 8 km (5 miles).

Day 7: Some consider this hike to be the most stunning stage of the route, you can decide. Leaving Curzu, the trail climbs to just below Capu di Curzu 2,812’. From here we descend to Bocca Croce and to the isolated beach of Tuara. After a wonderful stop for a swim in the clear blue waters, we hike the last hour or so to the quaint village of Girolata with its red tile roofs and narrow alleys. Girolata has been designated as a World Heritage site, which is a part of UNESCO, and is accessible only by foot or boat. This overnight stop is memorable. Time: about 5hours. Elevation gain: 786m (2,595’), Elevation loss: 757m (2,500’), Distance: 9 km (5.6 miles).

Day 8: Leaving Girolata we begin a pleasant climb up the Cavone Ravine toward the summit of Capu Licchia. At the saddle of Bocca di Fuata (458m, 1,511’) the trail turns east following to Punta di a Liternicco. Again, we will have amazing views of the wild landscape of the interior form Scandola to Paglia Orba and as well of the red rocky coast boarding azure blue bays. Turning north we descend the Tavulaghiu valley to our next seaside village of Galeria (25m, 83’). Time: 6 hours 20 minutes, Elevation gain: 784m (2,587’), Elevation loss: 754m (2,488’), Distance: 12 km (7.4 miles).

Day 9: After a leisurely morning in Galeria we head inland to follow the Vallee du Fango and the river of the same name. Climbing steeply at first, we will soon have views north to the coastline and beaches. With fine views of the Paglia Orba massif, also called Le Grande Barriere, we cross the old stone bridge of Ponte Vecchiu (46m, 151’) and meander along the river until we reach our gite for the night at Tuarelli (90m, 297’). Deep natural pools along this last stretch of trail provide an inviting opportunity for an afternoon dip. Time: 3 hours 40 minutes, Elevation gain: 271 (895’), Elevation loss: 221(730’), Distance: 10 km (6.2 miles).

Day 10: We cross two passes today, Bocca di Lucca (589m, 1.944’) and Bocca de Bonassa (1,153m, 3,805’). From Bocca Bonnassa we’ll have our first glimpse of the Golfe di Calvi to the north and to the east the granite spires of the Cirque de Bonitfatu. Our route today will be accented by giant holm oaks and maritime pines, as well as the prospect of spotting one of the golden eagles that nest in this area. Our last night on the trail will be spent at the gite in Bonitfatu. Time: 6 hours, Elevation gain: 1,144m (3,775’), Elevation loss: 664m (2,191’), Distance: 15 km (9.3 miles).

Day 11: Our final stretch of the route is relatively short, taking us up through the Foret de Sambucu and down to the village of Calenzana, the terminus of the Tra Mare e Monti. This stage is more obligatory than beautiful as much of the Foret de Sambucu was damaged by fire several years ago. Descending, after our final pass, Bocca u Corsu at 599m, we arrive in the pretty village of Calenzana.

The largest village in this region of Balagne, Calenzana is a maze of small lanes and old granite houses surrounding the church of Saint Balise with its Baroque belfry. Allowing time to poke around or celebrate at a near by cafe, we then transfer to the port village of Calvi and our hotel.

Rumored to be the birthplace of Christopher Columbus, Calvi is a picturesque seaside town with striking bulwark of a citadel jutting out to form a turquoise blue bay. Farewell Dinner. Time: 4 hours 40 minutes, Elevation gain: 287 (947’), Elevation loss: 590 (1,947’), Distance: 11 km (6.8 miles).

Day 12: Depart Calvi. The airport is about a short 25 minute taxi trip from the hotel.

Note: Elevation gain refers to the total number of feet ascended in any given day. Hiking times refer to the actual number of hours hiked, not including rests stops. Both are only approximations and can vary depending on weather conditions and hiking abilities.

TOP

Additional Information

Included:

group transfers from the Ajaccio Airport to our hotel in Cargese on Day 1,all accommodations, all breakfasts, all dinners, all group transfers by van as described in the itinerary, guides, great hiking and memories!

Not Included:

Airfare, lunches, optional/individual transfers or excursions, individual transfers to the airport or ferry terminal at the conclusion of hike, items not on set dinner menu, beverages, insurance, tips to guides/leaders, items of personal nature (phone calls, laundry, excess baggage charge, passport fees, etc.). Allow roughly $250 - $350 for additional costs.

Luggage:

This trip is not luggage or van supported. Participants will need to carry their personal items in a pack. Any extra luggage will meet the group at our final hotel at the end of the hike.

Who would enjoy this hike:

This is a perfect hike for those looking for a great adventure. Corsica, we think, is the last rugged area in Western Europe that can offer a varied off-the-beaten-path hike. Corsica is relatively untamed and undeveloped. Due to the rugged nature and remote setting of this hike we cannot make the same kind of guarantees or speak with the same accuracies we can of our other trips, participants should be flexible, dependable, have a well developed sense of humor and spirit of adventure and not be overly inclined to whine, though whining is permitted.

Why Travel with Distant Journeys:

Because we like to hike hard and have a good meal and glass of wine at the end of the day. Because we like to be as much a part of a place and the landscape as we can. Because we like the camaraderie that’s forged between people engaged in a common experience of physical endeavor in places of natural beauty. Because we believe less is more. Because we like a good laugh. And because, for the most part, we’re a heck of a lot of fun.

Accommodations and Facilities:

During the trip we will spend four nights in hotels with private baths. The other seven nights will be at simple gite d’etapes.Gites are simple overnight accommodations typically for hikers or through travelers. Unlike refuges or huts, gites tend to be located in small villages or settlements and are accessible by road. They generally offer dormitory style sleeping accommodations (normally 6 – 8 per room), though some many have a few private rooms with shared facilities.

Hiking Grades:

This hike is graded strenuous. The hiking trails are generally well graded and well defined which makes for great hiking. There are sections that may include mud, pesky pricker bushes called maquis, loose rock, and scree. Some sections can be very steep, rugged and exposed.

Any hiking trip in the mountains requires a certain amount of effort and proper fitness training will enhance your enjoyment. In the mountains, time and elevation gain or loss as opposed to distance, tend to be the determining factors when defining hiking grades or level of difficulty. We have done our best to grade our trips consistently, please call us for further clarification.

Easy: Hike 3 to 4 hours daily carrying a day pack on generally gentle terrain. Distances from 4 to 8 miles. Elevation gain and loss 500' to 1,500'.

Moderate: Hike an average of 4 to 5 hours daily on varied terrain. Distances from 5 to 9 miles. Elevation gains and losses generally 1,500' to 2,500' or about 2 hours.

Strenuous: Hike 5 to 7 hours daily on varied terrain, with consistent ascents and descents of 2 to 3 or more hours generally 2,500' - 3,500'. Distances from 6 to 11 miles. There are some sections that include steep uphill and downhills.

Strenuous Plus: 5 to 8 hours partly on rocky, challenging terrain with consistent steep ascents and descents of 2 to 3 or more hours generally 3,000'-5,000'. Distances from 6 to 15 miles. Though each day is not strenuous plus there are some sections that may include rough terrain and open and exposed trails.

Travel:

Ajaccio and Calvi can be reached by either plane or ferry and most frequently from either Nice or Marseille. All members of the Tra Mare e Monti will be met at the Ajaccio airport at 1:00 pm on the first day for a group transfer to our hotel in Cargese. The trip will end will end with breakfast at our hotel in Calvi the last day of the trip. Both the airport and ferry terminal are only a short transfer form the hotel. We are happy to help arrange taxis.