The Haute Route: Self-Guided Hike
Chamonix to Zermatt
Hiking Trip Details
- Location: France and Switzerland
- Length: 13 days; this is flexible
- Grade: Strenuous and strenuous plus;
- Accommodations: Hotels, hiker’s hotels and mountain huts
- Self-Guided Land Cost (US$): From $2,350 for 13 days; land cost will vary depending on final itinerary.
- Self-guided Dates: very late June – mid September
Experienced hikers only.
Hiking Trip Summary
The Haute Route was established almost a hundred years ago as a high mountaineering route that linked together two of Europe’s premier mountaineering centers, Chamonix and Zermatt. It was then developed into a ski route and more recently a high-level mountain hike.
Few long distance hikes offer the variety and grandeur of landscape as this route. Beginning in Chamonix at the foot of Mont Blanc, Western Europe’s highest peak, the Haute Route winds its way through the Swiss canton of Valais. Taking in what is thought to be the greatest collection of four thousand meter peaks in all the Alps, it culminates at the foot of the Matterhorn in Zermatt. While Mont Blanc will remain in view for much of the hike, we will also become familiar with other equally impressive peaks such as the Grand Combin, Mont Blanc de Cheilon, Pigne d’Arolla, Dent Blanche, and the Weisshorn. This hike is nothing short of fantastic!
As with all of Europe’s long distance footpaths, this route offers the experience of traveling by foot. Carrying everything you need for the duration of the trip (it is possible to send extra bags to Zermatt), you hike beneath imposing peaks and glaciers of the Swiss Alps, wander though alpine meadows and larch forests, cross high, barren passes and descend into lush green valleys. You picnic beside cool mountain lakes, stay in remote mountain huts, visit bustling Swiss villages, and relax in the tranquility of isolated old-world hamlets.
This is a strenuous route covering almost 177 kilometers (110 miles) and crossing eleven passes, many over 9,000 feet. While there will be some ambitious days, there will also be leisurely days. We have tried to incorporate as little alternative transportation as possible and have used it only when necessary to allow for a smoother day. This is a classic hike through the heart of the Swiss Alps.
Itinerary
- This itinerary below represents only one of several possibilities. Don’t hesitate to ask us about the options.
Day 1: Independent travel to the hotel in Chamonix, France using your Swiss Card. Chamonix is home to a dazzling array of many of the highest peaks in the Alps including Mont Blanc (15,860′). Overnight in Chamonix, dinner on your own.
Day 2: A short bus transfer north from Chamonix to Le Tour will bring you to the starting point of your hike. Ascending to the Col de la Balme (7,230′) you have impressive views of the Chamonix valley and the Mont Blanc massif before descending into the quiet settlement of Trient. Dinner and breakfast included.
- Some of our hikers depart on foot from Chamonix and spend the first night in the village of Argentiere and hike to Trient the next day.
Day 3: There are two hiking options for today, one via the high alpine pastures of Bovine with expansive views of the Rhone Valley, and the other more difficult route up and over the ruggedly beautiful Fenetre d’Arpette. You can decide on your hike in the morning. The hike concludes in the picturesque lakeside village of Champex.
Day 4: Morning transfer from Champex Lac to Verbier where you take the gondola up to its terminus at Ruinettes. From here you begin the hike to the remote Cabane Louvie. This narrow trail, called the “sentier des chamois”, leads close by several clusters of chamois and bouquetin. In the distant rise, the stunning multi-peaked Grand Combin (14,149′), draped with its numerous glaciers and the Mont Blanc Massif.
If the weather is poor, you can take a Swiss Post bus to Fionnay, a small hamlet tucked near the end of the Val de Bagnes, where there is the start of a shorter hike to Cabane Louvie. This steep but short climb offers fantastic views of the Grand Combin (14,149′).
Day 5: Today’s hike is a remarkable and very remote route, as you hike from lush alpine meadows and across high barren plateaus. Leaving Cabane Louvie, the route rises to a high belvedere with expansive views of the Val de Bagnes and the Grand Combin before reaching the Col Louvie (9,639′). In this cirque you may be lucky enough to see grazing herds of chamois and bouquetin.
From this Col, you traverse a landscape of barren rock and massive mountains, including the Rosablanche (11,000’), tumbling moraines, and drying glaciers before ascending to your final Col, Col de Prafleuri (9,785′). Your final descent leads to Cabane de Prafleuri (8,660′), your refuge for the night. This is a fantastic and remote hike; however, it is a strenuous plus day on an very demanding and rocky trail. The trail is frequently open and exposed on one side.
Day 6: From Cabane de Prafleuri, a short climb leads to the Col des Roux (9,253′) with its views of the great triangular mass of Mont Blanc de Cheilon and the green pastures of the Val des Dix bordering the huge five kilometer lake. Descending to the lake, you will follow its west bank and at the southern most end begin the climb to the refuge, Cabane des Dix (9,660′), dramatically perched above the Glacier de Cheilon at the foot of Mont Blanc de Cheilon. En route you may get your first glimpse of the Matterhorn off in the distance. This is a stunning hike.
Day 7: Leaving Cabane des Dix, a short, steep descent leads to the Glacier de Cheilon. Crossing this relatively “level” glacier presents no extra challenges and no special equipment is needed. It can, however, be slippery and wet as with any terrain on this route. After about 45 minutes you begin the rocky climb up to the Pas de Chevre. With the assistance of iron ladders (70‘ high) secured to the cliff, you reach the Col with its dazzling views of Pigne d’Arolla, Mont Collon, Mont Blanc de Cheilon, Dent Blanche and the distant Matterhorn. Descending from the Col, the route soon becomes less demanding as it parallels a grassy moraine carved out by the long Tsijiore glacier. The hike concludes in the village of Arolla. Swiss Post Bus to Evolene.
- Some hikers combine the shorter hiking days of day 6 and day 7 into one longer, more strenuous day and hike from Prafleuri to Arolla, where they take a late afternoon bus to Evolene.
- Some stay in Arolla and hike to La Sage the next day. The hike from Arolla to La Sage is mostly in the valley.
Day 8: About a 25 -35 minute taxi trip or Swiss Post Bus transfer takes you to the small hamlet of Le Cotter or La Villa from where you begin your hike. The morning will be spent climbing through green alpine pastures to the Col de Torrent (9,632′) with its magnificent views. On a clear day it’s possible to see Mont Blanc, as well as the Bernese Alps on the far side of the Rhone Valley. Descending to huge damned Lac de Moiry, you hike through pastures and farms and past the small picturesque mountain Lac des Autannes.
From the dam at the north end of the lake, you follow the stream La Gougre down the Val de Moiry to Grimentz, said to be one of the most attractive villages in the Valais. Overnight in a hotel.
- Note: The taxi to Le Cotter is not included. Allow roughly $ 60 – $80 for 1 – 4 persons. It is also possible to take the Swiss Post Bus (morning departure times from Evolene at about 7:20 and 9:20; about $8 per person) to the small village of La Villa from where you begin your hike.
- Some of our hikers continue from Lac de Moiry and hike over the Col Sorebois and down to the sweet, little village of Zinal for the night. From Zinal it is possible to hike over the Col Forcletta or the Meidpass. This is a great option for strong hikers or those looking for a challenge.
Day 9: From Grimentz, transfer by bus across the valley to the village of St. Luc. After a short funicular ride, you’ll begin your hike to the Meidpass (9,207′) hiking from the French-speaking Valais into the German-speaking Valais. The descent down to the hamlet of Gruben in the Turtmanntal is like a hike into the past. Remote and relatively undisturbed, this valley with its one hiker’s hotel affords a beautiful and restful stopover.
Day 10: Today you cross the last pass of the Haute Route, the Augstbordpass. During the middle ages, this was an important trading route from the Rhone Valley to Italy. Some say this is one of the finest stages of the hike, but you can decide. It is a varied route through woodlands, pastures and stony wilderness and offers stunning views of the high mountain peaks including Balfrin, Nadelhorn, Lenzspitzen, Dom and Taeschhorn to the east and the Bruggenhorn, Bishorn and Weisshorn to the south. To the north and well across the Rhone Valley the Bietschhorn and the Breithorn stand tall and massive each rising well over 12,000’. The day will end in the village of St. Niklaus from where a short bus trip takes you to the picturesque village of Grachen, your overnight stop.
Day 11: From the hotel in Grachen, you start the day with a very pleasant 45-minute walk to the hamlet of Gasenried. Once in Gasenried, you begin your climb to the high belvedere and the famous Europaweg to the Europa Hut. This wonderful hike offers a completely different view of the mountains including the Weisshorn, which dominates the skyline. There are outstanding views of the Rhone Valley to the north and the Mischabel Range to the south. The Matterhorn will now be showing herself with some regularity.
Though the mountain scenery has been fantastic all along, some say this hike is the “jewel in the crown”. However, this is a strenuous plus day and the very rocky and rugged trail is open and exposed for many sections. If the weather conditions are poor, it is possible to hike to Europa Hut via a more direct and shorter route (about 2 ½ hours) that begins in the valley. Europa Hut is a classic mountain hut with its small bunk rooms and limited personal space. It caters to high mountaineers as well as hikers. It is usually very busy. The views from the hut are incredible.
Day 12: By now the mountains: the Matterhorn, Dent Blanche, Ober Gabelhorn, Zinalrothorn and Weisshorn will be readily recognizable. After many days on the trail you begin your final and spectacular hike into bustling village of Zermatt. This is not a day to rush as the route continues to amaze.
Day 13: Individual departure from Zermatt. Please allow for travel time when making plans.
If you would like to spend an extra night(s) in Chamonix or Zermatt please let us know when you book your trip and we will make reservations at the same hotel.
Additional Information
Included
This may change depending your final confirmed itinerary. Two hours of general consulting regarding hiking dates and abilities, travel information on getting to Chamonix and from Zermatt; 2nd class Swiss Card, travel suggestions; detailed Swiss Topo maps covering the route; very detailed trail notes – we hike the route each year and keep our notes updated and as accurate as possible; additional information covering various aspects of your trip (i.e. lunches, laundry, water, refuge routines, alternate transportation, etc.); we make and prepay all overnight accommodations, which include breakfasts and most dinners; all private taxi transfers, if any, as detailed in the final itinerary; hotels with private baths as described in itinerary, other overnight accommodations will vary.
- About the Swiss Card – included in the trip price – This “card” allows for one round trip on the Swiss Rail System: an “inbound trip” from a Swiss Airport or the Swiss border to a location in Switzerland. (Your Swiss Card will not be valid for the last bit of train travel from the Swiss border to Chamonix, France. You can purchase a ticket for this leg at any Swiss train station.) The Swiss Card also includes an “outbound trip” from Zermatt to any destination in Switzerland, normally back to the airport or nearby city. It also allows for up to 50% reduction on most cable cars and other lifts within Switzerland. This is very useful in Zermatt if you are spending extra days and you decide to take one of the dozens of cable cars high in to the mountains. Once validated it is good for 30 days.
Not Included
This may change depending on your final confirmed itinerary: Air fare, lunches, any transfers or excursions on trains, lifts, buses, taxis, luggage transfer to Zermatt, extra charges due to changes in itinerary, items not on set dinner menu, dinners in Chamonix, Evolene and Zermatt and as described in the final itinerary, beverages except what is served at breakfast, insurance, items of personal nature (phone calls, laundry, excess baggage charge, medical expenses, evacuation costs, insurance, passport fees, etc.). Allow roughly $275 – $375 in additional costs.
Luggage
This trip is not luggage supported. You carry with what you need for the duration of the trip. We provide a detailed packing list, however, plan on carrying roughly a 20 lbs. pack. (See our Sample Packing List.) With advances in synthetic clothing and other travel gear, it’s possible to keep your pack weight to 20 lbs. including lunch and water. Any extra luggage you will not need can be sent to Zermatt to meet you at the end of your hike. There are several ways to transfer your extra bags from Chamonix to Zermatt. Luggage transfer costs are not included in the cost of the trip.
Accommodations and Facilities
The accommodations on the Hiker’s Haute Route vary from comfortable 3 star hotels to rustic mountain cabanes. Your trip may or may not included the following depending on your final confirmed itinerary.
Hotels: Hotels with private baths included Chamonix, Champex, Evolene, Grimentz, Zinal, Grachen and Zermatt. These hotels are comfortable and welcoming.
Hikers’ Hotels or hostels: The hiker’s hotels/hotsels offer simple and basic, though comfortable accommodations. They have private double rooms with shared facilities. Hiker’s hotels include Trient and Gruben.
Cabanes or Refuges: Louvie, Prafleuri, Dix and Europa. They are high mountain huts and have shared bunkrooms, called dortoirs, complete with blankets and pillows. The shared facilities include washing and bathroom areas. All have hot showers except Cabane des Dix.
The atmosphere is friendly and jovial as hikers from many countries gather to spend the night. We believe that staying in the cabanes and small hotels offers a wonderful opportunity to meet hikers from other parts of the world, experience something new and wonderful and take part in the simple tradition of the European style of hiking hut-to-hut.
Meals: Breakfasts are served each morning at the hotels, hiker’s hotels and cabanes. Lunches are picnic style on the trail. Dinners are served at most hotels, hiker’s hotels and Cabanes. Dinners are not included in Chamonix, Evolene or Zermatt.
Travel
The nearest airport to starting point is Geneva. The nearest airport to the ending point is Zurich. It is about a 4-hour train trip from Zermatt to either the Geneva or Zurich Airport. The first train departs Zermatt at about 5:30 am. Please allow for travel time when making plans.
Who would like this trip?
Our Haute Route is a great trip for strong hikers looking for a fantastic long distant route. It is a challenging and varied route including many passes over 9,000′. The accommodations include hotels as well as high mountain cabanes.
What makes this trip different
We are a small owner operated company. As owners we take part in every aspect of the business from designing our trips, to speaking directly with prospective hikers, to guiding. We are intimately familiar with our trip areas, the hotel and hut owners and service providers with whom we work. At the end of a day of hiking on one of our self-guided itineraries, whether you are ending your day at a mountain hut or village hotel, you will be greeted with the same anticipation and welcome as if we were arriving along with you. We are dedicated to providing personal attention and crafting a quality experience at good value that is just right for you.
Starting Point
This route normally starts in Chamonix; however, if you are short on time there are many other logical places to start this hike. Call us with your travel time frame and we can come up with some ideas.
Ending Point
Normally this route ends in Zermatt; however, you can end the hike is several other Swiss villages. Call us for more information.
For a more detailed itinerary that includes elevation gains, loss and distance, or to register please call.
Switzerland Trips
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Just wanted to thank you so much for a wonderful experience in the Alps. Had a superb time!! Your directions were wonderful. Loved every trail, route, ibex, chamois and hut. Am sad to be home. Met many Distant Journey clients…they were all having a great adventure, thanks to you!!
Jinx Bryant, Kemore WA
